The City Carved from Stone

Most visitors to Italy follow a well-worn path: Rome, Florence, Venice, the Amalfi Coast. Very few make it to Matera, a city in the Basilicata region of southern Italy that may be the most historically remarkable place in the entire country. Matera's Sassi — the ancient cave dwellings carved directly into a limestone ravine — represent one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world, with evidence of human habitation stretching back at least 9,000 years.

What Are the Sassi?

The Sassi (literally "stones" in Italian) are two districts of cave homes, churches, and civic structures built into and on top of a deep ravine called the Gravina. For millennia, Materans lived in these caves — cool in summer, insulated in winter, and requiring no construction materials beyond the stone itself. Homes, stables, and cisterns were layered on top of one another across the ravine walls in extraordinary density.

By the mid-20th century, the Sassi had become overcrowded and unsanitary. The Italian government forcibly evacuated residents in the 1950s and 1960s, relocating them to new housing on the plateau above. For decades, the caves sat empty and were seen as an embarrassment — a symbol of the poverty of the rural south.

The Renaissance of Matera

Everything changed in 1993, when UNESCO designated the Sassi a World Heritage Site. Gradually, former caves were restored as hotels, restaurants, and homes. Residents returned. Artists moved in. And when Matera was named a European Capital of Culture for 2019, the world finally started paying attention.

What to See and Do

  • Walk the Sassi Barisano and Sassi Caveoso: The two main cave districts, each with distinct character and dozens of rock-cut churches decorated with Byzantine frescoes.
  • Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario: A preserved cave dwelling set up to show exactly how families lived here as recently as the 1950s — intensely moving.
  • The Rupestrian Churches: Over 150 rock-cut churches are scattered through the Sassi and surrounding countryside, many with remarkably intact medieval art.
  • Murgia Plateau Viewpoint: Cross the Gravina gorge for the classic panorama looking back at the Sassi — especially extraordinary at golden hour.
  • Stay in a Cave Hotel: Several of Matera's most atmospheric accommodations are built directly into ancient caves, some with rooftop terraces overlooking the ravine.

Food and Local Culture

Basilicata is one of Italy's least-visited regions, which means its food culture remains relatively unaffected by tourist demand. Local specialties include peperoni cruschi (crispy dried peppers), pane di Matera (a distinctive sourdough bread protected by EU designation), and hearty lamb dishes. The local Aglianico del Vulture wine, grown on volcanic soils nearby, is outstanding.

Getting There

Matera sits about 65 km from Bari, which has a major airport with connections across Europe. A combination of train and bus links the two cities, or the journey takes about 75 minutes by car. Matera rewards at least two nights — one isn't enough to absorb its layered history.